The first Diageo Special Releases Oban to be released since 2004 has matured in rejuvenated American oak and second-fill bodega casks. The outturn is 2,860 bottles. Tinned peaches, ginger, caramel, and newly-sawn wood on the nose, with an accompanying marine note. Syrupy in the mouth, lovely and spicy, with nutmeg, cinnamon, and baked apple. A splash of brine provides contrast. Spicy in the drying finish, with ginger to the fore, plus more sea salt.

This expression, distilled in 1996, was matured in refill European oak butts, an even bigger rarity for the brand than the extended age.

At cask strength, it’s an aggressive, but manageable, whisky.

The nose is lively and vibrant, lightly salty with a distinct bacon character, herbal and woody, with hints of sage-infused brown butter. Based on the aroma, you’d expect an intense, savoury experience on the tongue — but that would be misleading.

The palate of the whisky drives things in a whole new direction. An initial rush of honey sweetness quickly tempers the upfront umami, washing it in notes of pear, melon, and tropical fruits. There’s a saltiness mid-palate that develops over time. When combined with the sweeter elements it gives the whisky a salted caramel note, tinged with a touch of chocolate.

The finish is moderately tannic, but this comes across as amaro-esque relief, a little yin and yang to conclude what is a decidedly mysterious but engaging experience. Recommended.

115.8 proof.